Account of a visit to the World War 1 battlefields by my grandfather - Frederick Henry Butt
(Courtesy of Andrew Butt)
My visit to France and Belgium with Alfred Popay - September 1929.
We left Long Preston on the 31 August - arrived at Tilbury Docks - left there about midnight. The boat was very full - good sail across - arrived at Dunkirk about 6am after the usual ceremony through the Customs.
Left Dunkirk for Ypres, got digs, and then after a Belgian lunch, went to the unveiling of a war memorial to the 50th Northumbrian Division by General Plumer, a very big ceremony. Motored back to Ypres and visited the Menin Gate, and stayed a good time reading the names, and examining the arches and terraces that are covered with the 50,000 mens names that have no known graves.
In the evening we motored to Hell Fire Corner, Hill 60 and 62. Saw the trenches and the old scrap material of war - plenty of old water bottles, rifles and the various shells that had been left, also the memorials.
From there we went to the German frontier, and made our way home via a village fair, where there were three roundabouts going, also the various shooting galleries, etc.
Then on to Tyne Cott Cemetery, 12,000 graves beautifully kept. Saw a German Cemetery, wooden crosses, in a very bad way. Then on to a French Cemetery, beautifully kept, then to our digs.
MONDAY
Ypres to Hazebruck by train, had lunch and a look round, then on to Loos, had a good walk and look round, then on to Albert. Got digs at the Continental Café. Had a good look round the town which is getting built up again.
TUESDAY
Albert to Montauban by light railway - visited Quarry Cemetery where George [Granddad’s eldest son] is buried, 890 graves, a nice little place, well kept. After taking photo of grave, went across country to Flat Iron Copse Cemetery, 1523 graves. On our journey from Quarry Cemetery we passed the largest mine crater on the Somme, shells and war material of all kinds. Also saw a head skeleton of one of our poor old lads. From Flat Iron Cemetery, back Mametz village, on to Fricourt, then by train back to Albert.
WEDNESDAY
By train to Beaumont Hamel, visited an old village cemetery which had been very badly damaged by shell fire, called at Beaumont village for lunch, then to Waggon Road Cemetery, then on to Frankfurt Trench Cemetery, then through Hamel village to the Memorial to the 51st Highland Division, to Hunters Cemetery, Hawthorn Ridge Cemetery, to Newfoundland Memorial. Visited the trenches and dug-outs and saw tons of old war materials. Called at Leuze Hut for refreshments, then on to Thiepval, visited the Connaught Cemetery, Mill Road Cemetery, then to the Thiepval Tower Memorial. Went on the top of this and could see for miles, then made our way to Hamel station, on to Albert.
THURSDAY
Albert to Amiens by train, had two hours to wait so had a look round the town, and lunch, then by train to Rouen, the country very beautiful, apples and pears in abundance, stayed 15 minutes for rest at Serquiax [Serqueux], arrived at Rouen, got digs, and tea, and visited St Severs Cemetery where Wilfred [Granddad’s next eldest son] is buried. Found grave and took photos. This is an exceptional Cemetery, very beautiful, and a good way out of Rouen, about 3 or 4 miles.
FRIDAY
Left Rouen at 12.50pm after a good look round the City and the river and docks. It was market day, the biggest and most variable things on sale I have ever seen. There seemed to be all nations of people. Very hot on train going back from Rouen. Intended going to Dunkirk, but had enough when we got to Arras, where we stayed the night, and had a good look round. Got to bed in good time.
SATURDAY
Left Arras at 10.15am for Dunkirk, where we had lunch and then took motor bus to De Panne, Belgium. Met some people on bus from England and spent a very happy afternoon with them. These people were staying at Malo. This is a seaside place between Dunkirk and De Panne.
Spent the SUNDAY at De Panne on the sands, hundreds of people bathing. Alfred had a good time in the sea, very hot. Met some people from Ypres at De Panne.
MONDAY
Another stretch on the sands, then a little shopping. Left for Malo after dinner, and spent a pleasant afternoon and evening with friends from London, who saw us off at Dunkirk 11.30pm for home.
Good voyage across, arrived in London about 8am. Had a good breakfast, Alfred a double one, at Lyons Cafe, then by tram to Piccadilly Circus and other places - Buckingham Palace, Marble Arch, St James Park, Hyde Park - memorial to the Royal Artillery [George’s Regiment], 45,000 names. Then we went to the Zoo to see our brothers. Left London for home 5pm, arrived Hellifield 10.30 - tired!
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